When October arrives, the Istanbul sky changes its mood. A day that begins in sunshine turns into a downpour by the afternoon, umbrellas open and the streets empty in an instant. For many of us, rain is reason enough to cancel our plans. Yet in this city a rainy day can be every bit as lovely as a sunny one. There are far more things to do in Istanbul when it rains than you might think. It is all about planning the day well.
Perhaps the loveliest way to enjoy a rainy day is to watch it from inside. A warm cup in your hands, raindrops tapping on the window and the Bosphorus fading to grey in the distance… One of the best places to see the city like this is Cafe Swiss. With panoramic Bosphorus views and a selection of coffees and teas, the cafe is open every day from 8 am until well past midnight, making it the perfect hideaway to wait out the rain. On weekend afternoons, Istanbul afternoon tea is served between 3 and 6 pm, with sandwiches, baklava by the pastry chef and weekly changing bites that turn a rainy Saturday into a small celebration.
For a sweet break, Lure is another favorite on rainy days. Choosing between the pralines and truffles in the window over a cup of hot chocolate softens even the greyest afternoon.
If you are wondering what to do on a rainy day in Istanbul, the hammam may be the oldest answer of all. While the day outside is cool and wet, lying back on warm marble relaxes body and mind at once. The Puerovel Turkish hammam ritual begins with the kese, a traditional exfoliating mitt, and a foam massage, then continues with the indoor pool, sauna and relaxation areas. When you step back outside, even the sound of the rain seems different. Adding a massage afterwards turns the day into a true city escape. And if the rain looks set to last all night, staying over rather than braving the wet journey home is a lovely idea. Waking up to a freshly washed city and a sparkling Bosphorus is the rain’s finest gift.
Indoor activities in Istanbul offer something for everyone. Museums remain the classic choice for a rainy day, and the city’s art museums and galleries can fill a long afternoon with their autumn exhibitions. For book lovers, there are secondhand bookshops and book cafes, while film fans can slip into small independent cinemas or experience the immersive performances of Gabbro Dream Theatre and Gabbro Jazz Covers. If you are looking for more inspiration, our story on the city’s indoor culture is worth reading.
As soon as the rain eases, the city’s historic arcades make for a charming route. Wandering among old shops in the covered passages of Beyoglu takes you on a little journey into the city’s past without even needing an umbrella. Stopping for a break in a flower-scented arcade to wait for the rain to pass is an Istanbul habit in its own right.
If the rain still has not stopped by evening, dinner calls for a little extra warmth. A spice-warmed Indian meal at our Madhu’s Restaurant is one of the best matches for this kind of weather. Madhu’s, which opens every day at 5 pm, turns a rainy evening into a cozy gathering with the signature dishes of Punjabi cuisine.
For those who want the night to go on, there is Gabbro. Inspired by the jazz bars of the 1920s, Gabbro Dream Theatre brings the stage indoors on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday evenings with live jazz, cabaret shows and dishes from around the world. A night among low lights and jazz while the rain falls outside is one of the most stylish plans of the season, whether you are here in October or wondering what to do in Istanbul in winter.
In Istanbul, rain is like a small pause that slows the city’s pace for a few hours. Moving your plans indoors instead of canceling them is one of the best ways to see the city through new eyes. Next time it rains, grab your umbrella and keep the day for yourself. A coffee, a hammam, a dinner or a jazz night… Istanbul offers a reason for every drop. If you would like to find all of them under one roof, the warm atmosphere of Swissotel The Bosphorus awaits you on the shores of the Bosphorus on your next rainy day.